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Cioppino
By Jane Steele and Jeff Becker Photography by Marty Snortum Studio

While this fish stew is more readily associated with San Francisco, California than the Amalfi coast of Italy, it was inspired by Italian and Portuguese immigrants that came to the U.S. to work the fish trade.

The name “cioppino” comes from the Italian contraction “C’é un po’?” which translates into “is there a little something?” The dish was originally made from leftovers with “a little something” thrown in that the family was able to beg from the fishermen.

As finding fresh seafood in the heart of the desert can be tricky, employ the following recipe as a guide, substituting what ever looks best at the market on the day of cooking. Try Toucan Market in Las Cruces, and Greenery or Sun Harvest markets in El Paso.

CIOPPINO SERVES 6-8

4 large garlic cloves, minced
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tsp dried oregano, crumbled
1 tsp hot red pepper flakes
11/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil
1 green bell pepper, diced
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 1/2 cups dry red wine
1 (28- to 32-oz) can whole plum tomatoes, drained, reserving juice, and chopped
1 cup bottled clam juice
1 cup chicken broth
 

1 lb calamari, cleaned
1/2 lb mussels
18 small (2-inch) hard-shelled clams
(1 1/2 lb) such as littlenecks, scrubbed
1 lb skinless red snapper or halibut fillets, cut into 1 1/2 - inch pieces
1 lb large shrimp (16 to 20), shelled (tails and bottom segment of shells left intact) and deveined
1/2 lb sea scallops, tough muscle removed from side of each if necessary
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh basil

This part can be made the day ahead to save time:

Heat an 8-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, add oil and cook garlic, onions, bay leaf, oregano, and red pepper flakes with salt and pepper stirring often for about five minutes, until onions are softened. Add bell pepper and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add wine, boil and reduce by about half, 5 to 6 minutes. Add tomatoes with their juice, clam juice, and broth and simmer, covered, 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

This should be done on the day of service:

While simmering, add clams and mussels to stew and cook, covered, until they start to open, about 5 to 10 minutes, checking every minute after 5 minutes and transferring opened clams and mussels to a bowl with a slotted spoon. Discard any unopened clams and mussels after 10 minutes. Lightly season fish fillets, shrimp, calamari and scallops with salt and add to stew, then simmer, covered, until just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Discard bay leaf, then return clams to pot and gently stir in parsley and basil.

Serve cioppino immediately in large soup bowls, garnished with fresh shredded basil and a side of crusty bread.

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