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Great Wall of China
Article and Photography By Joseph Burgess
  At the Great Wall of China restaurant, customers are greeted at the entrance by a large Buddha. Twenty-four years ago, Ryan and Nana Cheng chose to open a restaurant in Ruidoso because, unlike people in Los Angeles and even Santa Fe, residents still wave and stop to chat about a gallery opening, the high school football team and how hot is was…well, everywhere but Ruidoso. “Everybody knows each other and are always willing to help,” relates Ryan. “We love Ruidoso’s four distinct seasons and perhaps more importantly in our business is the fact that people here are exceptionally open to new foods, wine and beer.”
At Great Wall of China, Ryan and Nana make frequent rounds among the customers, explaining the preparation of a caterpillar roll, joking and just making people feel relaxed. “We train our staff,” says Nana, “not only to be efficient and courteous, but also to be happy. Dining out should be a positive experience in every sense of the word and especially in a small town atmosphere.”
Make no mistake, however, that the Cheng’s primary focus is on the quality and consistency of their food. Strict adherence to preparation controls and almost continuous feedback from clientele ensures a high level of satisfaction, as confirmed by the longevity of the operation. The Chengs presented me with a feast befitting a dynasty monarch, and leftovers that far overshadowed anything in my refrigerator.
As a starter, the Po-Po Platter is a tasteful and elegant appetizer for directing your palate toward the oriental experience. Nana calls it a “teasing” combination of egg rolls, fried wontons, Bar-B-Q pork ribs, fried chicken wings, foil-wrapped chicken and beef cho-cho (served on small skewers over a tiny grill).
The fish rolls always fascinate me, and I counted at least 38 Chinese and Japanese variations on the menu, roughly half of which are cooked. The Rainbow roll includes yellowtail, salmon, tuna, ono, escolar, blue marlin and avocado. The Caterpillar includes fresh smoked water eel, avocado,  cucumber and carrots, and the Chengs have included a veggie roll among their presentations. Traditionally, in order to benefit from the full, intended flavor, one eats a full section of the roll with each bite. That was no problem for my relatively large mouth, but a bit of a challenge for my chopstick skill level. A new addition is the Great Wall Salmon, smothered in a tangy sauce consisting of anAlfredo sauce with jalapeño, with onion and tomato added for a southwestern flair.
The menu at Great Wall of China also consists of a wide variety of traditional Chinese and Japanese cuisine, family dinners and a handful of American favorites, including Black Angus steak. The favorite drink is hot Chinese jasmine tea, a flavorful, almost silky beverage. Ryan and Nana originally met at college in Taiwan. They are very proud and protective of their American experience, and their son, Glen, is currently serving an internship with New Mexico Senator Pete Dominici.
Be sure to read on the menu about the restaurant’s namesake, the Great Wall of China, a phenomenal structure almost 4000 miles in total length that has had a marked influence on Chinese culture. And as you leave don’t forget to rub Buddha’s stomach for good luck.
Great Wall of China 2913 Sudderth Dr. Ruidoso, NM (505) 257-2522
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