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Homegrown Wines of New Mexico
By Bobby Lee Lawrence
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There have been many pioneers in the grape growing industry in the “New World,” and New Mexico was home to some of the first. Beginning in the year 1500, the Spaniards started planting vineyards and producing wine in this part of the country. Initially the wine was used in religious ceremonies. More recently, grape growing in New Mexico has exploded with an annual production of over 350,000 gallons of wine—a remarkable feat given the hot, dry climate and challenging soil conditions. Remember, the area around us is elevated 4,000 feet or higher; it is easy to forget that being in the desert does not necessarily mean being equal to sea level.
The increasing demand for wine (consumption is up again in 2005) has spawned a niche for growers augmenting wine producers. As I drove through much of the state, the number of new vineyards cropping up surprised me. Most are planted with the most popular grape varieties, and indeed some varieties that would test even the most ideal conditions. The newer plantings are not yet commercially viable, but this expansion lends credence for investors in the future growth of the wine industry here.
What really piqued my interest was how growers in the state overcome many challenges and produce quality, award-winning wines. I began my investigation by meeting with Farid Himeur, a well respected and experienced grower, of Gruet Winery in Albuquerque. Gruet focuses on sparkling wines and distributes both nationally and internationally.
In 1983, Farid supervised the initial planting of one-hundred forty acres of SO-4 rootstock in Elephant Butte. The rootstock is just that – roots chosen for their ability to resist diseases and climatic conditions. To grow certain types of varietals, growers graft vines onto the rootstock in order to give them the grape required for the wine they intend to produce. Any type of grapevine can be grafted onto the base rootstock.
The soil in Gruet’s Elephant Butte vineyard is similar to that found in Spain and parts of France, ideal for the SO-4 type of vine. The sandy soil allows for good irrigation and holds the warmth when temperatures drop at night. Irrigation is a critical part of managing the vineyard. Gruet uses Elephant Butte Lake as a source of water by means of a large pump placed in the lake that feeds water to the vineyards. This gives them complete control of water flow.
In the Southwest, most grapes are of the Vinifera (wine grape) variety. Although there are many different varieties (or cultivars), both in Europe and the Americas, Vinifera does well in the Southwest because it requires long, hot, dry growing seasons with mild winters. You would better recognize the resulting wines—Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Syrah, etc.
 While these grapes are able to survive temperatures above zero degrees, if humidity rises they can be susceptible to certain diseases and insects found mostly in wet climates, such as Powdery Mildew & Chlorosis. The most common pests found in New Mexico are certain insects and birds. To combat the birds, some of the growers use a canon to startle them. It works for a while … until the birds get used to the noise.
I could not present a complete picture of New Mexico’s grape growing community without including a grower in the Southern part of the state. I visited with Paolo D’Andrea of Luna Rossa Winery in Deming. Paolo comes from four generations of Italian grape growers and has a degree in viticulture from Spilimbergo, Italy. Needless to say, he comes from good stock (no pun intended!). He arrived in the United States in 1986 to work for New Mexico Vineyards, Inc., training local laborers in the art of pruning vines. Paolo is an expert in grafting grapevines and his years of experience growing and managing vineyards have earned him great respect in his field.
In 2001 he and his wife, Sylvia, founded Luna Rossa Winery, successfully producing numerous award-winning wines. Paolo saw the New Mexico desert area as a challenge and currently has fourteen acres planted at his winery. He also manages the largest vineyard in New Mexico (300 acres), owned by a Swiss company, supplying grapes to many of the winemakers throughout the state and surrounding areas. Irrigation for his vineyards comes from ground water. I asked Paolo about the challenges of being a grower in New Mexico. Interestingly enough, his answers varied from the growers in the Northern part of the state. His main issues are the low humidity and temperature variations, not surprising considering the location.
So how important is the growth of the wine industry to the state of New Mexico? Recently, New Mexico State University committed to hiring a state viticulturist. This could be an excellent resource for established growers, as well as for those considering New Mexico as a good place to become involved in the growing wine industry. However, some of the winemakers and growers did raise the concern that the viticulturist must be familiar with the specific conditions existing in New Mexico, as they differ from other areas in the United States and Europe.
New Mexico continues to grow as a wine producing area thanks to growers and winemakers like Farid and Paolo. We, as consumers, continue to benefit from their passion, reflected in the exceptional wines they produce.
Should you be traveling in the Albuquerque or Deming areas, both wineries have excellent tasting rooms. Gruet is located at 8400 Pan American Freeway N.E. in Albuquerque, and Luna Rossa is at 3710 West Pine Street, Southwest Frontage Road, Deming, New Mexico.
*NM Wines at the top of page, left to right:
DH Lescombs, Tularosa Vineyards, La Vina, Gruet,
Willmon, Mademoiselle Vineyards, St. Claire Port, Plum
Loco, Willmon, St. Claire Bellisimo and Chardonnay,
Luna Rossa, Blue Teal, and Heart of the Desert Vineyard.
Photo by Marty Snortum Studios.
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