Wines Of The Northwest
By Bobby Lee Lawrence Photography courtesy of Adelsheim Winery and Precept Brands

What is the first thing that comes to mind when someone mentions “The Northwest”? Is it Seattle with its exciting culinary scene and abundant fresh seafood found at colorful places like Pike’s Market? Is it Oregon with its winter ski slopes and laid-back lifestyle? Whatever comes to mind, the last thing you probably think of is wine, although the Northwest has been creating quality wines since the 1930s.

When we speak of the Northwest regarding quality wine production, we include Oregon, Idaho, Washington State, and our neighbor to the north, British Columbia in Canada. When we dissect the area even further; there are ten AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) in the United States, and four in British Columbia. The most popular and well known are Columbia Valley, Walla-Walla, Willamette Valley, and Snake River in Idaho. Because Washington and Oregon share Columbia and Walla-Walla Valleys, wines from those regions tend to be similar.

Of the above, only Washington can claim they were producing wine in quantity before 1970. In the 1850s, French settlers in Walla Walla Valley began growing native grapes to be used in the production of juice, jelly, and sweet fortified wines. Leap ahead to 2006: Washington State now produces 13.2 million gallons of quality wine, putting them in second place in the U.S. As impressive as the numbers may be, they pale in comparison to California’s almost 600 million gallons annually.

The strong demand for wines from the Northwest has resulted in new wineries opening almost monthly since 1999. Washington boasts more than 360 wineries with 30,000 acres planted, followed by Oregon with 314 wineries and 14,000 acres planted. British Columbia has 120 operating wineries with slightly over 5,000 acres planted (fifty percent are white grape varieties). Trailing in last place is Idaho, with only 23 wineries and approximately 2,000 acres planted.

Let’s explore factors contributing to the present success. Topping the list would be the nearly ideal climate for growing Vinifera grapes. Next is the broad concern for the environment. The Washington Wine Commission has taken on a major role in marketing and setting up regulations for all wineries. The Washington Wine Quality Alliance sets rules similar to many other grape growing regions in the world. Oregon has instituted a program called LIVE (Low Input Viticulture & Enology), promoting biodiversity, which is currently en vogue.

The immigration of winemakers from other areas has also enhanced the industry. Oregon, for example, has seen an influx of California winemakers. In addition, many young winemakers from Europe have relocated to the northwestern United States. Most are from winemaking families, graduates with degrees in Viticulture and Enology. Here they are allowed the freedom to create and are not confined to the traditional methods used in Europe. Moving to the New World also allows them to move more quickly into positions of authority.

Much like Germany, the stars of Northwest wines are Rieslings, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Many of the wineries also plant Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah and Merlot. Chardonnay has had less success and production is driven more by consumers’ fascination with the wine and less with quality or character. Wine styles tend to stay with varietal names that the American public can identify with, such as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet, Syrah, etc. The white wines are crisp and fruity, typical of grapes grown in this climate. The process of cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks also enhances the style. Red grapes can develop full, ripe fruit flavors with substantial tannin levels. The addition of oak aging allows the winemakers to create well-balanced wines.

Oregon has built its reputation on Pinot Noir wines. Much of the publicity that drives Pinot Noir’s success has overshadowed other grape varietals like Pinot Gris and Riesling that also do well in this climate. If you remember, in a recent article I mentioned that most vineyards have planted Vinifera vines grafted onto American rootstock. This practice has been successful in combating the dreaded Phylloxera. In Oregon, however, the original growers planted their own vines. As a result, the Northern part of the state has seen their vines attacked by this disease. The main growing area is the Western side of the Cascade Mountains. Valleys that run north and south, and are about 60 miles from the Pacific Ocean, experience cooler temperatures and more rainfall, lending itself to grapes such as Riesling and Pinot Noir. Moving south towards Eugene and the California border, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have had good success.

Idaho’s growing area is centered in the most moderate climate in the state, the Snake River Valley in the southwest corner. Rainfall is low, so irrigation is a necessary part of cultivating grapes. The biggest challenge is the abrupt arrival of winter, cutting short the growing season and making it difficult to allow the grapes to fully ripen. For all of the above reasons, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Chenin Blanc seem to be the only successful wines from this area.

In British Columbia, as expected, grape varieties such as Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Muller-Thurgau that do well in colder climates dominate the vineyards. The Okanagan Valley DVA is the cradle of grape growing. This northern area has attracted some well-known winemakers, despite the challenges. Two of the more well known, George Heitz and John Simes, are now with Grey Monk Winery and Mission Hill, respectively.

Now I’ll share with you my picks for Northwest wines: Townshend 2004 Riesling, Yakima Valley. Selling for $10.00, this classy wine is an off-dry style with just enough sweetness to combat the tannins. Serve cool with a summer salad. If you prefer a Chardonnay, here is a real surprise, Pine & Post NV from Washington State sells for $9.00…yes, $9.00! It’s a blend with 20% Semillion, giving it flavors of citrus and tangerines. For you red wine lovers, Colvin Vineyards 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla-Walla) is a great choice; excellent long finish with cassis and black cherry flavors. I have tasted this one and, at $26.00, it’s a winner!

If you prefer to stay with the better-known wineries, try Adelsheim in Newberg, Oregon, Ste. Chapelle near Lake Lowell in Caldwell, Idaho, or L’Ecole No-41 located in Lowden, Washington. All are consistent producers. Also, for a real treat, try an Icewine (sometimes called Eiswein) from any of the northern wineries. Leaving the white grapes on the vines until they are frozen creates these unique wines. The frozen grapes are then crushed, extracting only the sweet juice and leaving the frozen water. This decadent dessert wine provides a magnificent finale for any meal.